A general question about castle building technique.

Discussion of personal LEGO Castle creations
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stapelaar
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Post by stapelaar »

Buford wrote:When I search Bricklink for 16 x 24 the only thing that comes up is baseplates? No large bricks?
There are no 16x24 bricks. Only 12x24. See: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=30072.
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davescastle
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Post by davescastle »

Usually you will find you run out of 2x bricks to create pillars, nothing beats the combination of Duplo or even Quatro and 2x system bricks. Those super bricks others here have mentioned is definetely a Plus...
Dave

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Buford
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Post by Buford »

That answers my question, you are using both techniques. I don’t have a many acre size bricks and I horde my large plates for latter (upper) construction. So I guess laying a base plate in a “tray” is the trick.

Thanks

Tim
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Post by Buford »

Thanks I found the 10 x20 's

Those puppy's are dear
(each)
Black $3.50
Dark gray $4.29
Green $4.61

x10 to pave tha castle keep!

Thanks
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Gumby
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Post by Gumby »

Buford wrote:Thanks I found the 10 x20 's
10 x 20 bricks? Yes, they exist but I don't think they're in production any more (which explains their price and/or rarity).

Instead you should be looking for the 12x24 brick, as well as 8x8, 8x16, or 4x10, 4x12 bricks. Assuming you're only using these for support (i.e. they won't show on the outside), they don't even have to be in brand new condition. :)
-Bryan
DaveOhare01
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Raised areas

Post by DaveOhare01 »

Howdy!

I feel building castles on a raised area really does look the best. What I do is add quite a few rooms under the raied area -- why waste the space?

So, doing that, for me anyway, creates a large open space, which I don't have to fill -- and largely dictates how I need to cover it over. In the rooms themselves, I often add supporting pillars or other decorative / structural elemets, so the floor/roof is as sturdy as possible.

Essentially, I would not go with filler bricks -- but suggest buying the cheaper plate elements (off color which you can cover with the color you actually want)

Another technique I like is SNOT -- laying brick elements sideways (in my case). A SNOT floor is not the best to carry a lot of load -- but you can add gaps for pillars which extend all the way to your foundation.

Here are a few examples.

The first is just an example of one of my raised sections, showing the rooms underneath, etc. The outer cliff wall is about 15-20 bricks high.

Image

The next two pictures are a lower-level area and then a SNOT floor on top.

Image

And with the SNOT floor

Image

Hope that helps!

Dave

Edit - Large images changed to clickable thumbnails. Please don't post pics over 400x400 pixels in the forums. Thanks, Bruce
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Emp.Justinian
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Post by Emp.Justinian »

Note to dave: You might want to replace those pictures with links. Chances are that in a very few minutes or hours a MOD will ditch that big picture. Pictures are not supposed to be bigger than... well I don't know exactly how big, but smaller than that.

God speed

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grin

Post by DaveOhare01 »

Justin!

Yup yup! I just can't for the life of me figure out how to make them nice and small! Thanks!

Dave
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Bruce N H
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Post by Bruce N H »

Hey Dave,

When you upload to Brickshelf, small thumbnails are automatically generated. When you look at your gallery, just right-click (on a PC) or control-click (on a Mac) on one of the small thumbnails and choose "copy image location".

If your normal deeplink looks like this:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/DaveO ... /image.jpg
the thumbnail link looks like this:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/DaveO ... _thumb.jpg

Bruce
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cool!

Post by DaveOhare01 »

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Post by kelderic »

I use the BURPs, and then have them attached to a set of 12 48x48 grey baseplates. I have those set on a sheet of plywood.

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