Photo-stitching

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Drucifer
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Photo-stitching

Post by Drucifer »

I decided to play around with the photo-stitching software that came with my digital camera. Here's what I came up with doing a quick experiment without a tripod, a very messy home office. (Note: non-broadband types might not want to select the large image :wink: ) This is a combination of 12 different images sewn together to make one image. You can see some of the seams, because I wasn't very precise with the camera position and I used a flash.

I thought this might be a good technique for getting pictures of larger MOCs and displays. Wouldn't a 360° panorama of the castle room at BrickFest be cool? :) If you're interested in doing this yourself, check to see if your camera has any stitching software with it. I've heard about it being done in Photoshop, although I'm not real sure about the procedure. There's at least one plugin for the GIMP available for creating panoramic images.

Sorry, that my office is such a mess. I've just finished building a new computer (not the one you can see in the picture). Hence all the boxes and such scattered about the floor. You might find some interesting LEGO tidbits if you search the shelves enough though. :D
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ottoatm
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Post by ottoatm »

I want that kind of mess in my office! :shock:

Nice collection.


I've seen this kind of software before, but I never imagined it to LEGO MOCs. Certainly some of the bigger castles could be well served by it! And the battle scenes!

I would love to see JPinoy use this for his entry in the next battle scene contest! :D
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cnelson
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Post by cnelson »

I've played around with photostitching sets some and have been underwhelmed with the results, especially considering the time and effort that I expended on it. It's extremely difficult to get a panoramic of anything smaller than room-size, especially when a regular pattern (like Lego studs) reveals any distortions apparent in the stitching.

Generally, when creating a panoramic, here are my rules:

-Use a tripod. If you're serious about it, you need either a levelling base or a panoramic base for your tripod head. (I use and love Really Right Stuff's Pano Base, but if you're not a photo geek like me the money's better spent out of the Lego budget.) If you're using a pan-tilt head (i.e., your tripod has a handle to move the head from side to side), you'll need to level it using the legs but you'll have an easy job rotating the camera.

-Set the lens as close to "normal" (50mm on a 35mm camera) as possible, but NEVER less than normal. If you set it less than normal, wide angle distortion will "bulge" the center of each frame in the panoramic so that it looks like one of those accordion-style folding screens.

-If you're taking a horizontal panorama, set the camera in its vertical ("portrait") orientation, and vice versa. This keeps you from having a very long and not very high picture.

-Aim for 10-25% overlap between images to give the photostitching software something to work with. Generally, the closer you are to the object being photographed, the less overlap you need (and want).

-Meter to properly exposed the brightest frame in the image and set your camera to manual exposure on those settings. You can recover detail in shadows; you can't recover a blown highlight.

-Set the focus to manual. Panoramics work extremely well at the hyperfocal distance of the lens or at higher f-stops. A low f-stop risks having different parts of the scene out of focus in different frames.

Photoshop CS & CS2 have a stitching feature that's pretty good. It's under File->Automate->Photomerge. Generally speaking I spend 1-4 hours getting a panoramic right, so it's a bit of a painstaking process.

My personal opinion is that stitching would work well for a display or room setup but not for an individual creation. If you're doing one creation, you're better off stepping as far back as your lens on maximum zoom will let you fill the frame with your subject and cropping it tightly to get a panoramic feel.

Carl
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